Dog Behavior Problems: Aggression Towards Unfamiliar Dogs Part 2 – Treatment

Is there a standard treatment for dogs that behave aggressively toward unfamiliar dogs?

When treating a dog that exhibits aggressive behavior, regardless of the type of aggression, you must create a management strategy that will provide both physical and emotional safety for you, your dog, and the dogs and people you encounter outside the home.

If your dog lunges at other dogs while on leash walks, try to avoid dogs by changing your path or adjusting the time of day you walk your dog. If your dog has shown aggressive behavior while in a group, such as a doggy daycare or a dog park, then do not bring your dog back to a group setting until treatment has been completed.

If you are concerned that your dog might accidentally reach and bite another dog, consider using a basket muzzle. Your dog will be vulnerable while muzzled and could be injured if another dog attacks, so it is important to walk only in areas where other dogs will be leashed and cannot bite your dog.

If your dog only shows aggression when dogs get very close (e.g., when a dog tries to sniff her, approach her toy, or get close to you), then for now it is important to prevent these interactions altogether. For example, do not allow your dog to greet other dogs on walks. You may need to lure her past with treats if she pulls to meet the dog. You may continue to bring your dog to visit with your friends and relatives, but keep her on a leash and ask your friends to leash their dogs, too, or use a baby gate to ensure your dog has enough space for comfort.

It is essential to identify triggers for the aggressive response so that appropriate management can be applied. The outcome will be better if your dog is not exposed to these triggers until treatment is complete. Some management strategies may be short-term, and others may be permanent.

Before beginning a behavioral treatment program, ask your veterinarian to do a thorough physical exam. Your dog could be in pain or have an underlying medical condition that is contributing to the aggressive response. A veterinary behaviorist can assess the physical and emotional reasons for the behavior. Having a professional evaluation is essential, as there are many possible causes for aggressive behavior toward unfamiliar dogs. Your dog’s treatment program will be based on an accurate understanding of the motivation behind the behavior.

How can I prevent my dog from lunging at other dogs on walks?

When walking your dog, use a secure, fitted collar and sturdy leash. A long-term treatment strategy will involve helping your dog relax even when another dog is in sight. To start, it is helpful to train two behavioral skills:

“Heel” or “walk with me”. Teach your dog to walk next to you when there are no dogs nearby and, eventually, when there are dogs nearby. Training always starts at home, in a quiet area with no distractions. Walk forward while holding a treat in your hand so you can easily reward your dog while she walks beside you. Soon, your dog will eagerly assume this “heel” position whenever she sees you walk forward with a treat in hand. Once she understands the desired behavior, say “heel,” just as she is about to step into the position. Next, practice with some distractions.

“Sit, stay, relax”. Start training in a quiet environment. Encourage your dog to sit and relax in front of or beside you as you deliver treats. Use a calm voice and ensure your dog sits patiently each time you deliver the treat. Work your way up to a calm two minutes – this is enough time for a dog in the street to pass by you. You may use the cue “stay, relax” as she relaxes. Once your dog has mastered the “heel” and “sit, stay” cues, you can arrange desensitization and counterconditioning sessions (see below).

"Until your dog is ready, if you encounter a dog on a walk, try to guide your dog off the path."

Until your dog is ready, if you encounter a dog on a walk, try to guide your dog off the path. Do give your dog commands or corrections while she is lunging. Try to stay calm and quiet. Hold the leash steady, with just enough tension to keep her from getting away or accidentally biting you. It often helps to stand still rather than continue moving forward, as pulling on the leash can cause frustration and increase the intensity of an aggressive response.

Do not use verbal cues until your dog can respond consistently with distractions. However, you can keep the mood “calm” by using a gentle, cheerful voice when you see a dog approaching. For instance, you can say, “good dog, here comes another lovely dog.” If your dog will take a treat, treat your dog generously until the other dog has passed you by. With some training, you may be able to ask for a “sit” and reward a relaxed sit-stay. Sometimes, it is not possible to stop in place. If you need to move forward to get past a particular dog, try using high-value treats to lure your dog along.

How do I reduce my dog’s fear and anxiety about other dogs?

Fear and anxiety are often treated with desensitization and counterconditioning. Identifying the triggers and context for the fear-based response is important. During a desensitization and counterconditioning session, you can ask your dog to “sit, stay, relax” when an approaching dog remains far enough away that your dog can easily focus on your cues. 

It is essential to identify the point at which your dog appears uncomfortable; perhaps your dog puts her ears back, stares, snarls, or attempts to move away. The pace should be slow so your dog is never frightened during a session. The term “threshold” is sometimes used to describe a dog’s lower tolerance level. In treatment, a dog is purposely kept “under threshold”.

With each session, the approaching dog may get a little closer, as long as your dog remains relaxed, until finally, after many sessions, your dog can sit and relax when the other dog is close enough for you to talk with the other handler. A qualified trainer who understands learning theory and positive reinforcement can help you with these sessions.

How do I stop my dog from behaving aggressively when dogs approach my house or property?

To begin, try to minimize the opportunity for your dog to observe and bark at other dogs passing by the house or yard. The more your dog practices aggressive behavior, the more difficult it will be to change. Indoors, consider using a gate or closing curtains so that the windows with the best street view are blocked.

Outdoors, supervise your dog, keeping her on a leash if you expect dogs are likely to pass by. The leash will keep her close to you so she cannot rush toward the fence barking. While she is near you, you can give her treats for remaining quiet.

Behavior modification may involve response substitution. You can teach your dog to move to a specific spot, such as a mat or dog bed, in response to the sight of a passing dog. To start, train the “go to spot” cue when all is calm.

Use a lure, without saying a verbal cue, until your dog understands the cue and is calm enough to listen. If your dog notices a dog passing by, quietly take out some delicious treats. Do not get too close to your dog if she is very excited – she could accidentally redirect her aggression toward you. Stand a few feet away, shaking the treats, and lure her to her spot once she notices you. Then, keep feeding her for “staying” quietly until you are certain the other dog is no longer in sight.

Can resource guarding or possessive aggression be treated?

Sometimes, a particular resource is so valuable to a dog that any approach by another dog can trigger an aggressive response. For treatment to be entirely successful, your dog must learn to accept relinquishing valuables, which can be difficult. It may be best to remove valuables before allowing dogs to interact.

Can predatory aggression or predatory behavior be treated?

Dogs that become highly aroused when they encounter other dogs running around or playing excitedly are often described as exhibiting predatory aggression. The behavior usually includes behaviors such as barking and piloerection (raised fur). In most cases, the behavior is driven by frustration, and treatment strategies are designed to reduce frustration and impulsivity. Desensitization and counterconditioning or response substitution strategies are effective for many dogs.

On the other hand, with true predatory behavior, dogs are not emotionally aroused; most often, without barking or otherwise signaling, they inflict a strong bite that can cause grave injury. This behavior is largely innate but can be facilitated when dogs are together in groups. 

Predatory behavior is very dangerous and a dog is not likely to be fully cured. Leash restraint should be continued when other dogs, particularly small dogs, are nearby. An attack can occur quickly if a small dog suddenly appears or makes a quick movement.

Should I correct my dog when she behaves aggressively toward another dog?

Avoid punishment-based strategies, as they can contribute to an increased intensity of aggression. First, there is a risk of redirected aggression: your attempt to confront your dog will, in effect, create a new, second fight.

Second, corrections are likely to increase your dog’s arousal and frustration such that it will be even more challenging for her to relax and recover from the encounter, particularly if the corrections elicit fear or discomfort.

Another concern with punishment is that it teaches your dog to abandon safe and valuable communicative signals. If you correct your dog for exhibiting a lower-level signal, such as a growl, snarl, or snap, he will instead use stronger signals, such as lunging and biting.

Is there a medication that can help the treatment program?

Treatment for inter-dog aggression toward unfamiliar dogs always requires behavior modification. If your dog has been diagnosed with anxiety, hyperreactivity, or frustration intolerance, your veterinary behaviorist may suggest adding medication to the treatment program. When used appropriately, medication can affect the emotional component of your dog’s response to the trigger stimuli, thus improving their ability to learn.

Medications are designed to reduce anxiety, reduce frustration, and lower the intensity of the aggressive response. Most often, an SSRI (selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor) is selected for the baseline medication. However, a veterinary behaviorist considers many factors, including your dog’s specific medical and behavior profile, to determine which medication suits your dog best.

How can I prevent my dog from becoming aggressive with other dogs?

Not all aggressive behavior can be prevented, but early socialization can help. Socialization involves deliberate exposure to friendly dogs and should only be done if your puppy appears neutral or friendly. If your puppy or adult dog is already exhibiting signs of fear or aggression when other dogs are nearby, discontinue all attempts to socialize through further exposure until a behaviorist can be consulted.

Reward-based training may also help reduce the risk of your dog developing aggression towards other dogs. During training, you and your dog will learn to communicate with each other. Your dog will learn to happily follow your cues, allowing you to easily guide her away from another dog if needed.

It is important to note that even well-socialized and well-trained dogs can develop aggression toward other dogs.