Possessive Aggression in Dogs

What is possessive aggression?

Possessive aggression describes aggressive behavior when a dog is approached while it is near a valued object or in possession of a valued object. The behavior is also referred to as guarding or resource guarding. Aggressive responses can range from subtle to obvious, including stiffening, grasping for an object, hovering over an object, snarling, growling, barking, snapping, lunging, and biting. The intensity of the response may increase if a person or animal continues to approach the dog when it has the valuable item.

It is normal to want to maintain control of one’s valuables. Dogs can communicate using a range of postures and vocalizations that signal “do not approach.” A behaviorally appropriate dog may stare, freeze, put a chin or paw on an object, or even snarl or growl. Problems arise when these signals are not recognized or heeded. Failed communication, such as when the oncoming person (or pet) does not back away, results in frustration, which motivates the dog to intensify these signals.

Dogs quickly learn that lower-level signals to “stay away” are not helpful and use a more effective behavior instead, such as a lunge or bite. Preventing this escalation requires you to identify subtle signals earlier, so you can apply an effective management and behavior modification strategy.

How can I tell if my dog will develop severe possessive aggression?

Watch for these early warning signs of possessive aggression when you approach or pass by your dog while she has something valuable:

• Chewing quickly or gulping
• Pausing, stiffening, or freezing rather than continuing to engage with the object
• Staring or watching, especially with the whites of the eyes showing
• Moving to cover the item with her body

These signs all show the dog is uncomfortable or concerned. Never ignore these signs; they are important. Recognizing signs when they are subtle and intervening early is essential for success. Obvious signs like growling, snarling, showing teeth, lunging, snapping, or biting are more severe and require consultation with a professional.

If you notice a sign of aggression related to an object, do not attempt to remove the item, and do not scold your dog. A verbal or physical confrontation can trigger a rapid escalation within moments, putting you at risk of being bitten. Furthermore, even a single confrontation may cause an increase in future possessive aggression, and is a serious safety concern as the risk of a bite may increase if a dog anticipates a conflict. Instead, if you notice your dog using a subtle signal asking you to “stay away”, walk away quietly.

If you need the object or your dog is in danger, stand a safe distance away and attempt to divert your dog’s focus with something irresistible. You could shake a container of smelly, high-value treats, or if the situation is urgent, you can even distract your dog by opening a door or ringing a doorbell. Then, once you have your dog’s attention, you can lure him out of the area — and then seek professional guidance.

How can I prevent possessive aggression?

Proactive management is a good strategy for preventing possessive aggression. In some cases, strategic management is all you need to create a lifetime of success. Some management suggestions:

• Never forcibly remove an item while your dog is chewing or playing, unless the item presents an immediate danger (e.g., a knife, bottle of medication).
• Practice emergency procedures, such as emergency “drop it”, before they are needed.
• Give your dog high-value or long-lasting chew items in an area away from people and other pets; use a crate, baby gate, closed door, or another barrier to prevent mistakes.
• Encourage your dog to use chew items or high-value items in low-traffic areas, such as an out-of-the-way dog bed where she will not feel social pressure while chewing or playing.
• Teach children never to approach a dog who has a valued chew or toy.
• Prevent puppies or dogs from gaining access to your valuable possessions by putting them away when you are not available to supervise.

How can I use training to help with possessive aggression?

Before starting any training program to prevent or reduce possessive aggression, check with your veterinarian to ensure your dog is at an appropriate weight and has no illnesses that can contribute to increased hunger or irritability.

Training can teach your dog to expect something wonderful when a person approaches, even when your dog has something valuable. Training can also teach your dog to eagerly release objects when asked. Any time you are practicing prevention exercises, watch for subtle warning signs. If you see a warning sign, stop and seek guidance from a behavior professional.

“All Good Things” Game for Prevention

Part 1: When your dog has a valued resource, such as a chew or toy, walk by at a generous distance — far enough away that your dog gives no subtle warning signs. As you pass by, maintain that comfortable distance while you roll a delicious treat toward your dog, aiming for it to land close to the treasure. Treats such as a small cube of meat or cheese often work well. Continue walking away without lingering.

This exercise teaches your dog that you do not want the treasure. It also helps the dog understand that someone approaching means wonderful, higher-value treats appear, and someone moving away means higher-value treats stop appearing.

Part 2: If your dog is comfortable and does not show any signs of concern, repeat this exercise a few times a week. Gradually decrease the distance at which you pass until you are close enough to toss the high-value treat right between her front paws as she chews or plays. Always continue walking away after you deliver the treat.

Teaching “Drop It” for Prevention

“Drop it” is the skill of releasing an item from the mouth. This item may be food, a chew, a toy, or stolen goods. A reliable “drop It,” taught with positive reinforcement, teaches the dog to look forward to releasing objects with happy anticipation and prevents conflict between dogs and people over items.

1. Start with a supply of tiny, high-value treats. While your dog is chewing on something appropriate, but not too valuable, cheerfully toss 5-10 treats on the floor. When your dog is about to leave their item to investigate the treats, call out “drop it” in a happy voice and walk away. Repeat this exercise 4 to 5 times every day for a few days.
2. Next, instead of immediately tossing the treat, first say “drop it.” If your dog releases the object and looks up eagerly, immediately drop a pile of treats and walk away. Repeat this for several days in a row. The goal is for your dog to stop what she is doing and rush over to investigate excitedly when she hears the cue “drop it”.
3. For the next level, teach your dog to “drop it” even if the possession is a little more valuable (e.g., a food toy filled with a few plain kibbles or a toy your dog favors). For this advanced training, it is essential to monitor your dog’s body language for any subtle signs of discomfort, as described previously.
4. While your dog enjoys the medium-value item, stay a distance away. Then, without approaching, call out “drop it” in a happy voice and cheerfully toss 5–10 treats on the floor near your feet, then walk away. Your dog will most likely run away from the medium-value item and excitedly eat the higher-value treats. Most dogs return to the medium-value item after finishing the treats.
5. Walk to a new location and repeat the steps above. The goal is for your dog to choose to leave the item and excitedly anticipate something safe and fun when she does so. After several repetitions, end the exercise by leaving the area and letting your dog keep the medium-value item. To increase the difficulty, you can continue to increase the value of the item she is asked to drop. Over time, if your dog is doing well, stand a little closer to her before asking for a “drop it”.
6. Lastly, and only if your dog looks relaxed and shows no signs of concern, call out “drop it”, drop the high-value treats, and while your dog is enjoying the treats, quietly pick up the item she dropped. Then, once your dog finishes the treats, give her back the object.

Will “drop it” work if my dog has something dangerous or precious to me?

It is a great idea to have a special “emergency button” cue in case your dog has something that could injure them, or if they have a valuable object they could damage. Choose a new cue for this training (e.g., “treat party”).

Train the new cue when your dog is busy or relaxing nearby without anything valuable in her possession. Randomly call out “treat party,” drop 2 to 3 high-value treats near your feet, and jog happily into another room, encouraging your dog to follow you. When you arrive in the other room, scatter 10–15 high-value treats onto the floor. While your dog is eating the treats, walk out of the room and close the door behind you. Open the door every 5–10 seconds and toss two to three more treats into the room.

With this training, the cue “treat party” will be strongly associated with having fun and getting great treats. Practice this cue often when your dog is not chewing anything valuable so that your dog does not have to give up anything and will eagerly follow you. Having a rapid and automatic response to “treat party” will help when your dog must release a possession immediately.

What if my dog is already showing signs of possessive aggression?

If your dog is already exhibiting possessive aggression, professional guidance is recommended while working through exercises to avoid unintentional miscommunication with your dog that can cause aggression to escalate. Your behavior specialist might suggest a modification of the “All Good Things” exercise to ensure safety while working to reduce aggression. Meanwhile, use the management suggestions described earlier to prevent accidental conflict between your dog and you or your other pets. Safety first!

Standard exercises might not be safe if your dog has previously snapped or lunged when approached. Modifications of the “All Good Things” game and “Drop It” cue rely on using a physical barrier, such as a gate or crate, so your dog cannot bite you if you accidentally get too close. They also require that you and your dog have a strong understanding of each other’s language. Your dog needs to recognize that your physical and verbal cues do not represent threats, and you need to recognize all the nuances of your dog’s communication style. Working side by side with a professional is strongly encouraged.